Core Menu: Feeder Insects That Shine

Leopard geckos are insectivores, so think variety and quality. Rotate 2–3 staple feeders and sprinkle in occasional treats. Keeping mealtime interesting encourages natural hunting behaviors and a balanced nutrient profile.

• Crickets: Classic, active, and great for encouraging movement. Gut load well.
• Dubia roaches: Excellent protein with a favorable calcium‑to‑phosphorus ratio.
• Mealworms: Handy and easy to cup‑feed; rotate with other staples to avoid monotony.
• Black soldier fly larvae: Naturally higher in calcium; a wonderful addition.
• Occasional treats: Silkworms, hornworms, and waxworms (the dessert course—use sparingly).

Gut Loading: The Pre‑Meal Power‑Up

Gut loading means feeding nutrient‑dense foods to your insects 12–24 hours before offering them to your gecko. It’s an easy habit that supercharges every bite.

Avoid cat/dog food for long‑term use—these are too high in fat and not formulated for insectivores.

Dusting & Supplements: Simple and Consistent

A reliable supplement routine keeps bones strong and sheds smooth. The most common approach is:

• Calcium without D3: Lightly dust most feedings.
• Calcium with D3: 1–2 times per week (depending on lighting and vet guidance).
• Multivitamin: 1 time per week for adults; 1–2 times for growing juveniles.

To dust: place feeders in a small cup with a pinch of powder, swirl gently to coat, then offer promptly so the coating doesn’t fall off. Keep powders fresh and stored dry.

Feeding Schedules by Age

Age	Frequency	Portion Guide
Hatchlings (0–3 mo)	Daily	As much as eagerly eaten in ~10–15 minutes
Juveniles (3–12 mo)	5–6× per week	10–12 appropriately sized insects per feeding
Adults (12+ mo)	3–4× per week	6–10 insects depending on size & activity
Seniors	2–4× per week	Smaller, easier feeders; monitor weight closely

“Appropriately sized” means no larger than the space between your gecko’s eyes.

Hydration, Moisture, and Sheds

Even desert animals need regular hydration. Offer a shallow, sturdy water dish and refresh daily. Many keepers also provide a separate dish of calcium without D3 in the enclosure. A dedicated moist hide (with clean, damp sphagnum) supports smooth sheds and keeps toes free from stuck skin.

Weight Management & Body Condition

Healthy adult leopard geckos carry reserves in the tail. Use a compact digital scale and track weight monthly. If the tail thins, review your feeding frequency, supplement schedule, and enclosure temperatures (cool geckos eat less). If the tail becomes overly plump, ease off high‑fat treats and increase activity with more active feeders and light enrichment.

Easy Feeding Flow (From Fridge to Feast)

1. Choose your feeders and gut load them 12–24 hours in advance.
2. Just before feeding, dust according to your weekly supplement plan.
3. Offer with tongs or in a smooth‑sided dish so insects don’t hide.
4. Let your gecko hunt for 10–15 minutes; remove leftovers afterward.
5. Wash hands, note appetite in a log, and celebrate the tiny victories!

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Skipping gut loading—this is free nutrition you absolutely want.
• Over‑relying on one feeder (variety brings balance).
• Using oversized insects that are hard to swallow.
• Dusting inconsistently or storing old, clumpy powders.
• Leaving live insects in the enclosure overnight.

Sample Weekly Plan (Adult)

Here’s a simple rotation to copy and tweak based on your gecko’s appetite and activity:

• Mon: Dubia roaches (dust calcium no D3)
• Wed: Crickets (dust calcium with D3)
• Fri: Mealworms in a dish (dust calcium no D3)
• Sat: Black soldier fly larvae (dust multivitamin)

If you use a low‑output UVB light properly, you may reduce D3 dusting (follow your reptile‑savvy vet’s guidance).