Tag Archive for: invertebrate care

Captive-bred Florida blue centipede with its dark body and blue-toned legs, the subject of this Florida blue centipede care guide

Florida Blue Centipede Care Guide: Substrate, Humidity and Safety

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The Florida blue centipede (Hemiscolopendra marginata) is a compact, fast-moving predator that looks like a miniature dragon. Its dark body, banded legs and blue-green tint make it a favorite among invertebrate keepers who want a small but dramatic animal. This guide explains how to house it safely, keep humidity right and feed it, along with the safety precautions every centipede keeper should understand. You can read about the Florida blue centipede at www.CbReptile.com.

Natural History

This species lives in the southeastern United States, including Florida, where it hides under logs, bark and leaf litter and hunts at night. It prefers humid microhabitats and stays in tight crevices during the day. Like other centipedes, it uses venom delivered through modified front legs to subdue insects.

Appearance

The body is flattened and segmented, with a dark brown to blue-black top and legs that often show a blue or greenish tint. Antennae and the forcipules near the head are used to sense and grab prey. The color can look more vivid right after a molt. A healthy animal moves smoothly and keeps its antennae active.

Florida blue centipede showing the segmented body and blue-green legs described in Florida blue centipede care

Size and Lifespan

This is a small centipede, generally reaching about 3 to 4 inches. With good care, many individuals live several years, although exact lifespans vary and are not as well documented as for common reptiles.

Temperament and Safety

Centipedes are fast, defensive and venomous. A bite can be painful and cause swelling, and sensitivity varies from person to person, so this is a strictly hands-off animal. Always use long tongs and a deep container for maintenance, never handle with bare hands and keep the enclosure out of reach of children and pets. Know where the nearest medical care is, and seek help if a bite leads to a severe reaction.

Enclosure Setup

A small, escape-proof enclosure with a locking lid is essential. A 5 to 10-gallon terrarium or a secure plastic container with ventilation holes works well. Include:

Sphagnum moss used to keep moist pockets in a Florida blue centipede enclosure
  • 3 to 4 inches of slightly damp coconut fiber and soil for burrowing and humidity
  • Pieces of cork bark and a leaf litter layer for cover
  • A small, shallow water dish that is easy to clean
  • A moist corner with sphagnum moss to give a humidity gradient

Use tight ventilation screens and secure all gaps, because centipedes are excellent escape artists. Avoid overly wet substrate, which can trigger mold or mites.

Heat and Humidity

Keep the enclosure in the mid 70s to low 80s°F, with a modest drop at night. Humidity of 60 to 80 percent is typically appropriate, maintained by dampening part of the substrate. No special lighting is needed, and direct sunlight should be avoided.

Diet

Offer gut-loaded insects such as crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms sized to the centipede. Juveniles eat every few days and adults about once a week, with portions adjusted to appetite. Remove uneaten prey to prevent stress. As with scorpions and tarantulas, a plump but not swollen body and steady activity suggest a healthy feeding routine. For comparison with other defensive invertebrates, see the Vietnamese orange-legged centipede or the emperor scorpion.

Small feeder crickets used for Florida blue centipede feeding

Molting and Health

Before a molt, a centipede may hide, stop eating and appear dull. Leave it undisturbed with humidity steady and avoid live prey during the process. After molting, allow time for the exoskeleton to harden before offering food. Watch for mites, mold and dehydration, and correct humidity issues promptly.

Setting Up Safely

Because this animal is fast and defensive, plan every maintenance step before opening the enclosure. Use a deep bin or the enclosure itself as the working space, keep tongs within reach and work calmly in a well-lit area. Choose decor that is easy to lift out with tongs, avoid complicated layouts that make the animal hard to locate, and keep a simple, secure place to move the centipede temporarily if the enclosure needs deep cleaning.

Observing Behavior

Normal behavior includes burrowing, lingering near the moist side of the enclosure and hunting at night. Reduced activity before molts is normal, but constant wandering and pacing along the glass can indicate that humidity, temperature or space needs adjustment. A red-light flashlight at night reveals feeding and exploring without disturbing the animal.

Why Captive-Bred Matters

Captive-bred invertebrates reduce the pressure of wild collection and are generally acclimated to enclosure life. A healthy Florida blue centipede gives keepers a fascinating, low-footprint animal with a clear care pathway.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a Florida blue centipede dangerous?

It can deliver a painful bite, so it should never be handled and requires careful, tool-based maintenance.

Can I keep more than one together?

No. Centipedes are cannibalistic and should be housed alone.

How humid should the enclosure be?

Moderately humid, with a damp area and a drier area so the animal can choose.

What is the best way to prevent escapes?

Use a locking lid, small ventilation holes and a smooth, tall enclosure.

Browse more captive-bred invertebrates at www.CbReptile.com.

Captive-bred Asian forest scorpion with glossy dark claws, the subject of this Asian forest scorpion care guide

Asian Forest Scorpion Care Guide: Housing, Humidity and Feeding

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Asian forest scorpions (Heterometrus species) are large, glossy and surprisingly calm scorpions that are popular with beginners because of their sturdy build and relatively mild venom compared to size. Their big pincers, slow movements and active burrowing make them engaging to watch. This guide explains the enclosure, humidity, feeding and safety practices that keep them healthy. You can read about the Asian forest scorpion at www.CbReptile.com.

Natural History

These scorpions come from tropical forests across South and Southeast Asia, where they live under logs, in leaf litter and in burrows. They prefer warm, humid conditions, and they spend much of the day hidden before emerging at night to hunt. Their large claws do most of the work in catching prey, with the stinger used when needed.

Appearance

Adults are shiny, black to deep green-black animals with thick claws and a curved tail ending in a stinger. Juveniles may appear paler and more delicate. A fresh molt can look slightly dull before the exoskeleton hardens and regains its sheen.

Asian forest scorpion showing its large pincers and segmented tail described in Asian forest scorpion care

Size and Lifespan

Many adults reach about 4 to 5 inches in body length, and well-kept animals commonly live 5 to 8 years or more, depending on species. Growth involves a series of molts, during which the scorpion is vulnerable.

Temperament and Safety

Asian forest scorpions are known for being relatively calm, but they are still venomous and can pinch or sting if threatened. Handling is not recommended, and long tongs should be used during maintenance. Be mindful of individual sensitivity to venom, and keep the enclosure secure and away from children.

Enclosure Setup

A 10 to 20-gallon enclosure suits an adult or a small group, with a secure lid and ventilation. Include:

Sphagnum moss used to create a humid burrow area in an Asian forest scorpion enclosure
  • 3 to 5 inches of coconut fiber and soil that holds a burrow
  • Cork bark slabs or half-logs for shelter
  • A shallow water dish with pebbles to prevent drowning
  • A moist area with sphagnum moss and a drier area for a humidity gradient

Adding a few hides gives each scorpion a place to retreat. Keep the lid tightly closed, because scorpions can climb smooth surfaces more easily than expected.

Heat and Humidity

Keep temperatures in the high 70s to mid 80s°F with a mild night drop. Humidity of around 70 to 80 percent is usually appropriate, achieved by dampening part of the substrate and keeping good airflow to prevent stagnation. A low-wattage heat mat on one side of the enclosure can maintain warmth, controlled by a thermostat.

Diet

Offer crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms sized to the scorpion every one to two weeks. Feed juveniles a bit more often. Remove uneaten prey after a day to avoid stress or mold, and keep fresh water available. If you enjoy comparing species, the emperor scorpion is another popular, relatively docile option with similar husbandry.

Small feeder crickets used for Asian forest scorpion feeding

Molting

Before a molt, a scorpion may stop eating, hide and appear dull. Leave it alone and keep humidity steady. After the molt, wait several days before feeding so the new exoskeleton can harden. Never remove the old skin yourself.

Daily and Weekly Routine

A simple routine keeps scorpions comfortable. Each evening, look for the animal at the burrow mouth and note whether it is active. Once a week, refill the water dish, spot-clean old prey and check that the damp side of the substrate is still moist while the dry side is not soggy. Replace the leaf litter and top layer of substrate when needed, and wipe condensation from the glass to maintain ventilation. Handle nothing with bare hands: use long soft-tipped tongs to move hides or prey, and be especially careful when opening the lid.

Common Mistakes

New keepers often keep the enclosure too dry or too wet, give a hide that is too large, or feed oversized prey that stresses the animal. Keep humidity steady, choose hides that fit the scorpion snugly, and offer prey roughly the size of the animal’s body. Avoid bright lights, strong vibrations and frequent rearranging, which can stress a nocturnal species. Patience and consistency usually produce the best results.

If you plan to keep more than one scorpion over time, record each animal’s molt dates, feeding and temperament in a notebook; it makes patterns obvious and helps you plan upgrades to the enclosure before crowding becomes an issue.

Why Captive-Bred Matters

Captive-bred scorpions ease the pressure on wild populations and have known conditions from the start. A healthy Asian forest scorpion is a rewarding animal for keepers who enjoy behavior-focused invertebrates.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Asian forest scorpions dangerous?

They are venomous, though generally considered less dangerous than many scorpions, and should never be handled.

Can I keep several together?

Some keepers house groups with abundant space and hides, but cannibalism is possible, so single housing is safest.

Do they need heat?

They like warmth; a gentle heat source can help if the room is cool.

How often should I feed?

Adults eat about once a week or every other week.

See more captive-bred invertebrates at www.CbReptile.com.